Jill and I recently walked a large section, over 100 miles, of the Camino de Santiago (“The Way of St. James”) in northern Spain. The culmination of the journey is the magnificent cathedral in the city of Santiago de Compostela, which houses the tomb of St. James.
This was not a vacation, not a tour, not just a trek — it was a pilgrimage.
Pilgrims have been making this journey since the 800s. Today, thousands come from all over the world to reflect, pray, experience a measure of solitude and connect with a segment of Christian history. I kept a journal of the journey.
Here are a few brief segments:
Day One
We began today just outside the city of Burgos. Here, the Camino winds its way through miles of dense forest. No towns, no sights, no sounds beyond our footsteps, the birds and the wind in the tall trees, which, like steeples lining our way, kept saying “look up.” We covered about 8.5 miles.
Day Two
This morning we broke out of the trees onto a wideopen plateau. The walk was relatively flat except for one long, gradual, very steep climb followed by a sheer descent nearly straight down — good for one’s prayer life. A little later in the day, we fell into step with three sisters who were on their 45th day of walking and visited with a couple from Norway and a fellow from Germany. We were alone but not alone.
Day Four
We are now settling into the daily routine — up at 6, backpacks ready, walking sticks at hand. After a light breakfast, we set off once more. Early in our day, we came to a long stone bridge first built in the 12th century. I paused to think of all those who had walked this way before me, including St. Francis of Assisi, scores of noblemen, thousands of pilgrims and priests. John Adams and his son, John Quincy Adams, walked a section of the Camino during one of his official visits to Europe on behalf of the newly formed United States. I stood for a moment on the bridge surrounded by a great cloud of witnesses. We were unaccompanied … yet not alone.
Day Six
It was pouring rain most of the night, and we anticipated heavy rain for today. We had ponchos and extra socks packed. However, just as we were beginning our walk, the sky cleared. A beautiful rainbow appeared, and off we went. Most of the day was sunny. After several miles, we stopped in a small village for water and met a young woman, whose backpack was nearly as big as she. As we talked, she said that she did not know where she would sleep tonight and then quickly added, “But the Camino will provide!” Off she went. Faith is the evidence of things not seen.
Day Ten
Nearing our final destination, the number of pilgrims has increased significantly as various other routes merge into the main pathway of the Camino. I am reminded of the Jewish pilgrims in Jesus’ day who made their way to Jerusalem for one of the high holy days. As the crowds began to swell, they would sing one or more Psalms (the Songs of Ascent) as they went up to the city. Their solitary walk became a communal journey, and they rejoiced. Late in the day, we came to a large hill from which one gets his/her first glimpse of the cathedral in the distance. This place is called “The Mount of Joy” — and rightfully so. After all the miles, all the ups and downs, through the various twists and turns, the destination was now in sight.
Day Eleven
Reaching the cathedral and the large open square was an exhilarating moment. Many were praying. Some were singing. Others stood or bowed in reverence. Many removed their shoes. There are many lessons to be learned through such an experience. I was reminded that we are all pilgrims on a journey, walking toward a common goal, with both companions and strangers. Thus, we are able to “do something good together.”
From Olivet The Magazine, The God Who Sees Us – Winter 2025. Read the full issue here.
